Sweet Maria's GeneCafe Tipsheet

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Sweet Maria's GeneCafe Tipsheet

Postby Sweet Maria's » Thu May 07, 2009 12:58 pm

  • Coffee roasting produces a fragrance, unobtrusive with light roasts but smokier if you roast dark. Operating any type
    of exhaust fan helps if the smoke is too intense. You can roast on a porch or near an open window, weather
    permitting. Cold temperatures (and use of an extension cord) can severely affect the roast, and may make it stall.
  • Roasting produces chaff, a fine skin that detaches from the bean as they roast. You need to empty the chaff collector
    after every roast. Remove visible chaff from the roast chamber every roast and dislodge any small beans that may
    become stuck in the chamber. Every five roasts, tip the machine to empty out any chaff in the housing... better yet,
    use a shop vac to suck out any chaff from where the air exits the drum, and where the chaff collector attaches to the
    chasis. Every 20 roasts, take apart the chaff collector and soak and scrub the screens in hot water.
  • Built-up coffee oils in the roast chamber are of no real consequence until they impede visibility or become a fire
    hazard. (In fact, a professional drum roaster requires hours of roasting initially to properly “season” the drum.)
  • Batch size is critical in any roast process; if the amount of coffee you put into the roaster varies, the roast will vary
    too. Ideally, it is best to roast by weight, not volume. I use 8 ounces or a half-pound by weight. PLEASE NOTE:
    The manual says 300 grams is the max. batch but I never use that much. For Dry Processed coffees with lots of
    chaff – you never want to use this much - 240 grams max.
  • Take care in handling the glass drum. Seat the drum into the roaster chassis at an angle. Do not force it, let it drop in.
  • The drive motor stops at a particular position (vertical or just a tad before vertical) to allow the drum to be removed.
    A couple times, after the cooling cycle finishes, I noticed the drum stopped a little out of position. If this happens,
    turn the roaster off, then on (push the red knob twice). The drum will rotate and will land on the correct position to
    remove the drum. Don't try to remove or replace the drum if the motor is in the wrong position.
  • Always use the provided "drum stand" when the drum is out of the roaster- it stands the drum on end for loading.
  • I use the highest temperature setting (482) for the coffee up ‘til the start of 1st crack, then bring the temperature
    down to finish the roast. In my tests, 482 @15 minutes is a City roast. PLEASE NOTE: The roaster will not reach
    482 degrees – that is too hot for roasting. Use the highest setting to ramp up to temperature faster.
  • Anticipate the roast color/degree you want, and stop the roaster a bit shy of that. Your City roast will tend to "coast"
    into City. To get the exact degree of roast, it is always preferred to manually stop the roast (by hitting the Cool
    button) when you see, hear & smell the signs of the roast you prefer. Start out by setting longer roast times and
    stopping the roast manually to get a feel for how the roaster is operating on your specific household voltage. (Yes, it
    makes a difference! Household voltage varies greatly from 106 to 130 in the U.S.)
  • The drum and instruction booklet designate a different roast volume for "Brazil Coffee." What they mean is that
    chaff-laden dry-process coffees will heat up the roast chamber more than less chaffy wet-processed coffees. Not just
    Brazilian but natural Ethiopian, Yemeni, Indonesian coffees as well - or blends containing these coffees. In my tests,
    all coffees - dry-processed, wet-processed and decafs- roast fine with an 8 oz. batch. Keep an eye on the roast
    (which you always should) to adapt the heat and roast time and make adjustments for chaff-laden coffees. Their
    "Brazil Coffee" setting does not account for pulped natural Brazils (less chaff) or anomalous wet-processed coffees
    that have tons of chaff (Bolivia Cup of Excellence comes to mind). One person reported some chaff igniting in the
    chamber - causing no damage - but can be a result of using a full batch of a chaff-heavy dry process coffee.
  • I prefer to dump the coffee into a stainless mesh colander after the cooling cycle completes, to get the coffee away
    from the warm metal/glass surfaces. When room temp. transfer it to canning jars. Coffee is better after 4 hours of
    “resting”, which allows the CO2 to de-gas from the coffee. It is at its flavor peak at 12-72 hours.
  • Warranty is provided by Fresh Beans Inc Phone: 435-940-1616 Fax: 435-940-1964 Email: skales@tfb.com Your
    order confirmation is proof of purchase. Call them if you have a mechanical problem. READ the instructions!!
[If you have a question about this information - please post it in a separate thread. If we have not responded in a few days and no one else can chimes in with a response, PM us or email at info@sweetmarias.com address to be sure to get our attention.]
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thompson owen, sweet maria's coffee, west oakland, california.
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Re: Sweet Maria's GeneCafe Tipsheet

Postby dakota jack » Wed May 27, 2009 5:11 pm

there are any number of ways to do this, as many as there are roasters. after experimenting for months with different profiles i have returned to Tom's simple directions listed on the tip sheet with a minor twist. i pre heat the coffee in part to dry it out, at 300 degrees F for 3 minutes and then reset my gene cafe to 482 etc.
my total roast times vary between 15 and 17 1/2 minutes, depending on what i want. i never go much past vienna and more often enjoy roast that are city and city +.
i find the first crack easy to hear and the second crack easy to miss, so after the first crack on fly by visual landmarks and smell. after the roast i hit quick stop, bi passing the bean cooling cycle, preferring to cool manually with a fan over my colander.
enjoy
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Re: Sweet Maria's GeneCafe Tipsheet

Postby Tuza » Tue Dec 08, 2009 6:52 am

Being in Arizona (very low humidity) I don't have to dry out the bean with pre-heating but do pre-heat the drum for 2 min. before adding the beans. I then go to 482 and let it rip - no adjusting the temp usually. I finish a roast to Full City/Full City+ in 14-15 min. Also bypass the Gene cooling cycle as Dakota Jack does. I was doing a fan over a colander but had a Rube Goldberg moment and now use the colander, 5 gal bucket with some modifications, and my shop vac. I can now completely cool a batch in about 90 seconds - two minutes in the dead of summer. Being able to execute a very quick cool-down has been my biggest improvement in my roasting experience in some time.
Last edited by Tuza on Thu Dec 10, 2009 6:22 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Sweet Maria's GeneCafe Tipsheet

Postby SlowRain » Tue Dec 08, 2009 8:44 pm

Is it as easy as it sounds to bypass the built-in cooling cycle? Just hit a button, pop it open, and dump?
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Re: Sweet Maria's GeneCafe Tipsheet

Postby BoldJava » Wed Dec 09, 2009 4:08 am

SlowRain wrote:Is it as easy as it sounds to bypass the built-in cooling cycle? Just hit a button, pop it open, and dump?


Yes, but hustle. Have your shop vac on and running and move quickly, getting the bean tumbler back into the chamber and through its empty cooling cycle. This takes me about 15-20 seconds.

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Re: Sweet Maria's GeneCafe Tipsheet

Postby SlowRain » Wed Dec 09, 2009 5:06 am

Sorry, I've only seen a Gene Cafe once in person--the rest of the time has been on YouTube. You mean you don't stop the cooling cycle, you just pull the tumbler out, dump it, then stick it back into the chamber?
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Re: Sweet Maria's GeneCafe Tipsheet

Postby BoldJava » Wed Dec 09, 2009 3:28 pm

SlowRain wrote:Sorry, I've only seen a Gene Cafe once in person--the rest of the time has been on YouTube. You mean you don't stop the cooling cycle, you just pull the tumbler out, dump it, then stick it back into the chamber?


It has an emergency stop ("E"), any time during the roast. Press it, the tumbler arrives at the top and stops, pull the tumbler out and fly like the wind. Don't dally as your electronic circuitry needs that draft to help it cool down. Put the tumbler back into and restart and then cool.

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Re: Sweet Maria's GeneCafe Tipsheet

Postby SlowRain » Wed Dec 09, 2009 9:20 pm

Okay. Now I understand. Thank you.
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Re: Sweet Maria's GeneCafe Tipsheet

Postby Tuza » Thu Dec 10, 2009 6:18 am

I don't understand why the hurry to get the drum back in position when using the immediate stop feature - am I missing something?
When I stop my roast I stop the drum per instructions (Manual pg. 12 #4 - E displayed on readout) and dump my beans. I place the drum in the stand and the Gene continues to blow air for cool down without the drum in place. Since the parts that need cooling are in the front end (heater) I don't see any advantage to returning the drum just to direct the air flow through the chaff collector. I have been following this process for about nine months and have had no issues. The Gene cools down and shuts off automatically, my beans are happy, and I can relax with a sip of joe as I watch the beans cool. I would recommend experimenting with timing on your immediate stop maneuver. If you begin the immediate stop cycle when the drum handle is at top dead center the drum slows and it take longer to get to a full stop. If you initiate the immediate stop with the handle at the bottom of the rotation it reaches removal position in quickly. You save about 4-5 seconds in waiting - quirky but it works best for me.
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Re: Sweet Maria's GeneCafe Tipsheet

Postby BoldJava » Fri Dec 11, 2009 7:07 am

Tuza wrote:I don't understand why the hurry to get the drum back in position when using the immediate stop feature - am I missing something?


Or is it I who is missing something.

For me, it seems the fan is running at a higher, faster speed once the tumbler is in and the unit is cooling as opposed to a static state. I will re-examine that next weekend when I am roasting.

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